Sunday 20 February 2011

Sea Lion Island

Tussac Grass

This island lies 10 miles south of mainland east Falkland and is the most southerly and isolated inhabited island in the Falklands. The island was originally a sheep farm. Nowadays most of the sheep have been removed which has meant the grasses have thrived providing breeding habitat for birds. It’s a small island about 5 miles long by just over a mile wide. About a fifth of the island is still covered by tussac grass which was the height of me in some places. Tussac grass is a native plant, each plant is made up of masses of long thin green leaves. These grow from a large fibrous pedestal known as a bog. The pedestals are made up of dry decaying leaves from years of growth. Some plants could be over 200 years old.
Elephant Sea
Aptly named the island is an important breeding area for Elephant Seals. There really are enormous beasts and, blimey, I thought that the penguins stank! Having watched them basking in the sun I was curious to see how close I could get – mindful of their bulk. Hmmm, not too close – it was as if they were waiting for me to creep up on them. As soon as I made my move, an eye opened and this incredible gargle from the back of the throat suggested I should “back up the truck!” Watching them sparring on the beach was like watching something from Jurassic Park. The grey stone cliffs overhung with tussock grass and these hulking great beasts sumo wrestling.
The Southern Sea Lion also breeds here. These sea lions were very docile and the majority were sleeping! Even asleep they seemed to be smiling. They have huge soulful eyes which water, from the salty water?
Sheffield Memorial
Further along the southern coast is the HMS Sheffield memorial. When we visited it was in need of a bit of TLC so we set about cleaning the plaques and the huge silver cross. Just below this cliff is a sea arch – the temptation to get close to the edge for that perfect shot was just too tempting (I was being careful Dad).

Sea Lion Island is also a hotspot for Orcas. I'm thrilled to have seen the fin of one! I know now why they are referred to as silent assassins. This huge black fin rose up out of the kelp as if it were testing the height of the tide against the rock pool before slipping silently back beneath the water. No more than 3 seconds but the image will remain with me to my dying day!