Sunday 12 June 2011

The End of my journey?


I've been wondering how to close off this blog now that I have returned to the UK. 
On 18th May my 'gozomie' box was delivered containing all my 'stuff' (all the heavy things and the majority of my personal effects).  It was reassuring to have the box but, at the same time, I was a little nervous about opening it ... I was sure I would get all emotional but I reckoned the best thing to do was to dive in there and get unpacked. Besides, I wanted to look at the gifts I had been presented with on my departure. I hadn't realised I had amassed quite so many souvenirs from my time there! Badges, leaflets, maps, t-shirts, a felted scarf (that looks like seaweed), a sheepskin rug, a mine sign mug and mousemat. And then there was the coaster given to my by the lady in the Pod gift shop when I left. Fond memories of my South Atlantic adventure. I have a new project which will be to make up a photo book only using the best of the pics... that'll keep me busy for a while... I've got hundreds to choose from! 
So what next? I was discussing this with a friend recently and heard myself saying the closing words for this blog. "I was met at the Airport by a driver and brought back here. The start of my next journey"...

Monday 4 April 2011

Homeward Bound - 2 Apr 11

Ascension Island
Having left the Falklands on a bitterly cold and wet autumnal night it was surreal to arrive in Ascension seven and a half hours later to bright blue skies, silver blue sea and wall to wall sunshine. Even through the aircraft window you could feel the heat. This was a very quick snap as the aircraft descended quite quickly, so you can’t really see how green and lush the foliage is on the mountains. Our stopover didn’t seem that long, but long enough for everyone to start undressing. I peeled of a waterproof jacket, a windproof jacket and a fleece (it really was cold when I left!) to a t-shirt but could feel my skin puckering in the heat!! 

27 Mar 11 - You’re never too old for a ball pit!

We happened to be doing some weekend working and it was freezing. The temperature outside had really dropped and the wind was bitter. To make matters worse the heating had gone off. Despite having several warm layers on sitting at a desk doesn’t keep you warm. I work close to the Community Centre so I thought I would use my initiative and see if there were any portable heaters that could be used to warm our building up. There wasn’t, but look what I found! A ball pit, OMG I couldn’t resist having a go… and you know what? I warmed up in no time! Let me just warn you though, if you come down a slide face first you are highly likely to get friction burns on your arms! Yeah, ouch!!

Saturday 26 March 2011

The Griffin Geocache – GC2QJZ3

It was only a matter of time before I hid my own geocache. And, predictably, I hid one out here. I’ve chosen a location that is within striking distance of others, which was deliberate as I want it to be visited. If you want to know more, you will have to log on to geocaching.com!

Pleasant Peak – 20 Mar 11

I’ve admired Pleasant Peak from afar and often thought “I wanna go up there”. Sunday was an incredibly mild day, considering that it’s autumn, and I was out in just a short sleeved t-shirt, today was the day!
I didn’t find the walk too steep but shied away from scrambling up to the memorial on the highest crop of rock because I was out on my own and didn’t want to tempt fate. I found out later that that cross was in memory of two fire fighters that had died.
I returned back to the road, following the direction of the ridge looking for somewhere less high to climb up – I know, a bit girlie but I so desperately wanted to get up high. I saw a second cross and made a beeline for it. This turned out to be a memorial to two men from 205 Signal Squadron and two members of the Army Air Corps killed in 1982.
As is the custom, I signed the book at the memorial and cleaned the brass plaques on the cross, being careful not to catch my reflection when taking this picture!

Memorial Wood, Stanley – 20 Mar 11

I’d been told about Memorial Wood by someone who had been out here before and had recommended it for a walk. This was probably going to be my last visit to Stanley and as it was such a beautiful, crisp autumn morning now seemed as good a time as any. There is a tree planted for those from the task force and the three civilians that didn’t survive the conflict back in 1982. I found it very moving walking through the wood, reading the names of those remembered but was heartened by the work of the local cub scouts who have planted thousands of bulbs that come up each spring. It is a lovely setting overlooking Port Stanley and a very fitting memorial.

Boot Hill – 19 Mar 11

It has become a tradition to leave a boot on Boot Hill. If you intend to come back, you leave one boot and if you do not, you leave the pair. 
I’d had a stake made so that it would be easier to push in to the ground but, as you can see, I struggled a bit. Ever resourceful I found a rock to whack it in with!
The Buddhist prayer flags were tied to the laces for my mate ‘Sav’. He’d have been impressed by the rugged beauty.


A ride on the RIB – 15 Mar 11

The rigid inflatable boat is used for man overboard situations and for boarding parties. The guys need to be dressed in their dry suits and booted within 3 minutes in a man overboard situation. I had a little bit more time to put on the dry suit and boots, making sure I squeezed all the air out … didn’t want to look like an orca on the off chance that I went in!
Not being a fan of water I was being really brave in front of the navy guys who were taking us out… just how fast would this little boat go? Gingerly, I got on board and tried to look really casual when my picture was being taken, but what you can’t see is just how tight I was holding on, we really were close to the water! Now feeling very nervous.
The boat was moved very gently away from the mooring, now feeling even more nervous. Once on the open water she was opened up, now I was just plain old fashioned scared. Yep, scared enough to hold on with one hand to get his attention! I felt happier sitting on the inside of the boat rather than the side, probably because I had hold of his belt so if I went in, he would be coming with me!
I was given an opportunity to drive the boat. That was okay, but it wasn’t long before I spooked myself and thought I was going to flip her over because I had over steered! The wind had picked up a bit and there were some waves which meant that the RIB jumped the waves and came crashing down… a bit like stomach churning fairground ride but you get a drenching with salt water.
But it was good fun and despite my fear of open water I would do it again! 

Carcass Island – 13 Mar 11

Port Pattison

Carcass Island is off the northwest tip of West Falkland. It’s a very small island and is about 5miles long and just over a mile wide at the widest point. It was named after the HMS Carcass which patrolled the waters in early 1767, and the Port Pattison named after the Captain. Port Pattison is the island’s sheltered bay and sits in front of the settlement which, surprisingly for the Falklands, is surrounded by trees.
The island is free of cats and rats which has allowed the small birds to breed. I was surprised just how unafraid the little brown tussock birds were, and on a couple of occasions I didn’t notice them against the rocks, until they flew at me!
As our visit time was short, we were driven cross-country to the airstrip by Shedder Pond and from here we walked down to see the elephant seals on the shoreline and walked towards North West Point. The elephant seals were lying quite high up on the beach so there were times where we had to nip in to the tussock grass to bypass them. The trouble is you can still smell them, so you don’t know if you are going to stumble across one in the grass or whether it is the smell coming off the beach. Guess I am too much of a scaredy cat to be a wildlife reporter!
Shedder Pond
The shoreline is very rocky and the sun caught the sea making it look like silver paper. Beautiful.
But wait, how rude of me! I didn’t tell you about the cakes that were laid on for us by Lorraine. Plates of homemade cakes and cookies, the best being the scones with jam and cream on them that were bite sized – I didn’t show you up Mum, I used a plate! (even if was to stand my coffee cup on).



Meeting with Radio Ham – 12 Mar 11

Dad had sent me a letter with a request. He had made contact with a radio ham on the Falkland Islands and wondered whether I could find the operator and confirm the contact. I’d planned a trip in to Stanley so, being as I was accompanied by a couple of guys from work, thought it would be safe to try to find the house. I soon found the street and, although not all the houses had their numbers clearly visible, the large antennae kind of gave the game away! Feeling brave I knocked the door and when the lady answered I burbled the story of Dad, the QSL confirmation and how I was ‘just passing’. Oh my goodness, the lady invited me and my two chums in for a chat. One of the guys is an electrician and was quite taken with all the wiggly amp kit in the shack. Lost on me, but I was taken with the view of Port Stanley from their living room window! And, you know me, I love a good natter.

John Smith Lecture – 9 Mar 11

John Smith is a local historian and had been invited to MPA to give a series of lectures. Of the five he was doing, this evening’s lecture was the one that whetted my appetite the most. He was going to talk about the Invasion in 1982. The lectures came highly recommended so I made sure I had an early dinner and made my way down to ‘get a good seat’!!
During the time of the invasion John had kept a diary and he gave us snippets of the days from the initial invasion to the task force arriving and the liberation. This included some recordings from the local radio station. He had some pieces of shrapnel which, on examination, really are very ugly jagged heavy bits of metal. John had also taken a number of black and white photographs which he left out for us to peruse during the break. Seeing the black and white photos it is hard to believe that all this took place some 29 years ago, it was only the haircuts and moustaches of the troops that helped me date the photos, Stanley has changed very little.
A very enjoyable lecture, he really is a very easy speaker to listen to. And there was no hard sell to buy a copy of his book!

Sunday 13 March 2011

Battlefield Tour, Mt Tumbledown – 9 March 2011

I’d deliberately saved this battlefield tour as the one to do last as it has the longest walk, about 6 miles round trip. The terrain was very different to that of Mt Longdon. We were to walk in the footsteps of 2 Scots Guards as they made their assault on Mt Tumbledown through 13th/14th June 1982We set off from a lay-by on the Stanley Road and walked to what would have been their assembly point. Unusually, there was a very thick mist which made our orientation very difficult, but very atmospheric! After a short distance we came across a dump of ammo boxes and mortar shell cases. It really is incredible to think this stuff has lain here untouched for nearly 30 years!
Despite the mist my lungs and legs were telling me we were beginning to climb. Then out of the mist appeared the craggy rocks of Goat Ridge. Keeping the Ridge on our left we continued to the starting line. Once over the fence we walked across country to Mt Tumbledown, the mist was beginning to clear, but the top of Mt Tumbledown was still hidden from view. As if by magic, the mist started to lift and across the valley to our left Mt Longdon came in to view, the landscape scarred from artillery fire. This scarring was pointed out to me; I just assumed it was bald patches where the peat was exposed.
And then a steady, steep climb up the side of Mt Tumbledown. The view back the way we had come was stunning. We now had blue skies and I was surprised at just how steep the terrain had been, it looked very different in the mist. My lungs and legs had been right! We continued to climb and were rewarded with some stunning views of Wireless Ridge over to our left and Stanley ahead of us and in the distance.
We saw the remnants of an Argentine bunker still containing a water bottle, blanket and the soles of plimsolls. Plimsolls were issued to the conscripts to prevent them deserting.
The tour culminated with the memorials, the first just below the summit and the smaller of the two. It was my privilege to volunteer to clean the brass plaques and strangely cathartic.  The second memorial on the summit involved a bit of a scramble to reach it and, as you know there is no mountain goat in me, I caused a bit of a queue! So with blue skies we began our descent, I’d eaten all my food and was beginning to peel layers off and slap on sun cream. If it is appropriate to say I have favourite battlefield tour, then this would be mine and largely due to the scenery. And the Scots Guards? Gentlemen, here’s tae you.



Whale Watching – Saturday 5 March 2011

Not being a very keen sailor I was somewhat apprehensive about spending 3 hours at sea whale watching. But then on the other hand – how exciting!! The boat held 8 passengers and left from the jetty in Stanley. It was a scorching hot day so the breeze at sea was most welcome. We set out through The Narrows in to Port William passing a couple of Korean fishing boats. Over to our starboard (right-hand side) was Cape Pembroke lighthouse, which was nice to see from the water (I’ve visited the lighthouse previously whilst geocaching). Soon we were in the Berkley Sound looking for whales. 
Then we saw their blows and started squealing with excitement! I know that sounds cheesy, but it really was a sight to behold! Of course all the digital cameras were taking pics, and it’s amazing how many shots we got of the sea, the waves and the horizon!! Very few of us actually caught the blows. I got a couple of shots of fins; turns out we were watching Sei whales which grow to 12m – 16m in length. After a little while we headed on to see a rockhopper penguin colony.  Whilst sailing towards the colony the boat was being chased by Imperial shags, several at a time – it was bit like the ducks that Hilda Ogden used to have on her wall in Coronation Street
We also spotted a number of Southern Sea Lions on a sandy beach, flanked by tussac grass. We were in a prime spot to watch the males fighting over territory on the beach. Seeing the large males with their manes of fur, it is clear how they got their name. 
And then we played with the peale dolphins. At first they were happy to jump out of the water at the front of the boat but then the skipper backed the boat up and they played with us, jumping, swooping and splashing on their backs. 
They soaked us, and our cameras! And I am pretty sure they knew exactly what they were doing. As we made our way back we sailed along the side of Gypsy Cove. The fencing along the beach could be seen from the water, the beach was heavily mined to prevent the British landing here in ’82.
I can’t tell you what an impression this day have left on me; it was like watching my very own wildlife programme – but live and with a front row seat!

Sunday 6 March 2011

Sunset - Friday 4th March 11

I wanted you to see the colours of the sunset. The picture doesn't quite demonstrate the colour of the sky. but it was like a blood orange. It wasn't late, i think i took this just after 20:00 hrs and knew that if i didn't take a photo i would regret it. The season is changing from late summer to early autumn and this last week there has been a real nip in the air in the mornings. the nights are darker for longer, it starts to get light around 06:00 hrs, which is good because i've been waking about 04:00 hrs for the last 13 weeks and not being able to go back to sleep because of the light coming in behind the curtains!

Wednesday 2 March 2011

Stone Runs - Rock Rivers

These truly are an impressive feature in the landscape. The picture doesn’t do the feature justice, but they are an accumulation of hard quartzite boulders. Charles Darwin referred to ‘streams of stones’ when he brought HMS Beagle here. Formed thousands of years ago in the last ice age, the rocks have been shattered by the temperature constantly freezing and defrosting. The rocks are arranged biggest on the top with layers of smaller stones lying beneath. The boulders on the top are silver-grey, the ones beneath are protected from the elements are an orangey/peachy colour. The smallest stone runs are about a metre wide, the largest up to four kilometres long and several hundred metres wide.

Sunday 27 Feb 11 – Volunteer Point

Volunteer Point is a peninsula to the north of East Falkland. It was named after the ship Volunteer which called at the Islands in 1815.
Volunteer Beach is a 2 mile long white sandy beach. There are Gentoo, Magellenic and King Penguins breeding here. The King Penguin colony is the largest in the Falkland IslandsBack in 1870 the King Penguin had almost been exterminated, killed for their oil and feathers. 
Today there are more than a thousand breeding adults at the colony and over 500 chicks are raised each year.


Monday 21 Feb 11 – The Comrade’s Choir

The Comrade’s Choir is a male voice choir with members hailing from Wales and Yorkshire. My boss asked me if I would meet the choir and then escort them to the little chapel where they would be performing. I watched the little coach coming along the brow of the Stanley Road wondering what I had let myself in for. I watched with interest as these old boys piled off the coach and was intrigued how they would sound; you can’t judge a book by its cover. Having handed the Choir over to the Salvation Army to ‘babysit’ until I returned from dinner – I nipped off to find a pair of gentlemen’s black trousers in a 34” waist for the Compare. Full of tricks me! Trousers found I headed back to the chapel. OMG it was like hearing angels singing, their voices were being carried up the corridors. Goose bumps! I tried to creep in un-noticed – not easy for a gingah! WOW – what a treat to hear these gentlemen sing and how unusual a setting!

Sunday 27 February 2011

Sunday 20 Feb 11 – Geocaching on Wireless Ridge, Stanley

Uranus

The caches are hidden within the route that forms part of the Planet Sculpture walk. This is a scale replica of the planets in the solar system and starts at the Sun in Stanley, heading out towards Mt Tumbledown and then returns along Wireless Ridge and Moody Brook. It seemed like a reasonable walk from the route card, besides the sun was shining and I was sure my three amigos would be up for a spot of geocaching. When we parked up at Moody Brook the wind wasn’t as obvious as we would find it along the ridge! The first cache was under a mile away and our climb on to Wireless Ridge was fairly effortless. The easy spot was the planet Uranus which stood out obviously from the surrounding rocks. 
Neptune
We were looking for a cache hidden in a crevasse – but from the scenery where do you start?! The cache was located and we duly signed the log book. On to the next one… Neptune. Remember I said it was windy? The wind blowing along and across the ridge was cruel! We tried walking on the higher ground where the terrain seemed flatter but we were getting sandblasted! Where was the sand coming from??? The GPS didn’t seemed bothered by the rocks and we were so busy looking at the view and jawing that we almost walked past the planet Neptune
This one less obvious in its position in front of a jaggy crop of rocks. Cache retrieved and log book duly signed we dropped off the ridge for shelter from the wind as we headed off to find Pluto. The GPS was pointing over to Mt Tumbledown but when we reached the old road we decided to quit. We were still a mile away from the cache, with an uphill hike and a minefield to walk around. Pluto will have to wait until I do the Mt Tumbledown battlefield tour! And my three amigos? One geocaching convert and all three enjoyed the walk. I’d call that a success!!

Sunday 20 February 2011

Sea Lion Island

Tussac Grass

This island lies 10 miles south of mainland east Falkland and is the most southerly and isolated inhabited island in the Falklands. The island was originally a sheep farm. Nowadays most of the sheep have been removed which has meant the grasses have thrived providing breeding habitat for birds. It’s a small island about 5 miles long by just over a mile wide. About a fifth of the island is still covered by tussac grass which was the height of me in some places. Tussac grass is a native plant, each plant is made up of masses of long thin green leaves. These grow from a large fibrous pedestal known as a bog. The pedestals are made up of dry decaying leaves from years of growth. Some plants could be over 200 years old.
Elephant Sea
Aptly named the island is an important breeding area for Elephant Seals. There really are enormous beasts and, blimey, I thought that the penguins stank! Having watched them basking in the sun I was curious to see how close I could get – mindful of their bulk. Hmmm, not too close – it was as if they were waiting for me to creep up on them. As soon as I made my move, an eye opened and this incredible gargle from the back of the throat suggested I should “back up the truck!” Watching them sparring on the beach was like watching something from Jurassic Park. The grey stone cliffs overhung with tussock grass and these hulking great beasts sumo wrestling.
The Southern Sea Lion also breeds here. These sea lions were very docile and the majority were sleeping! Even asleep they seemed to be smiling. They have huge soulful eyes which water, from the salty water?
Sheffield Memorial
Further along the southern coast is the HMS Sheffield memorial. When we visited it was in need of a bit of TLC so we set about cleaning the plaques and the huge silver cross. Just below this cliff is a sea arch – the temptation to get close to the edge for that perfect shot was just too tempting (I was being careful Dad).

Sea Lion Island is also a hotspot for Orcas. I'm thrilled to have seen the fin of one! I know now why they are referred to as silent assassins. This huge black fin rose up out of the kelp as if it were testing the height of the tide against the rock pool before slipping silently back beneath the water. No more than 3 seconds but the image will remain with me to my dying day!

Darwin & Goose Green Battlefield Tour - Sunday 13 Feb 11

Argentinian Trench
Camilla Creek (from Trench)
I thought it would be a bit different to do a BFT with a local historian and was this ever the best thing to do! His knowledge was amazing, full of facts and anecdotal stories and he never repeated himself once! He has us captivated for four hours. The afternoon started with High Tea at Darwin House before we were collected and driven off road and cross country in his 4 x 4 towards Camilla Creek. The water looked pretty grey and I didn’t envy those engineers who would have had to have waded in order to build the bridges. For 2 Para it was then uphill. We were shown the Argentinian trenches and it wasn’t difficult to understand why they had been placed here. Their view was panoramic.
position of sniper
At Darwin Hill we were shown the site where the sniper had been situated that killed Col H Jones. An incredibly weathered metal post that, had it not been pointed out, you would never know it was there. The spot where Col H Jones fell is marked with a memorial and the plaque is gleaming, tended by regular visitors. Our tour culminated in Goose Green the surrender was negotiated. The British were only expecting 80 odd men to march out. They were met by over 150. More were to come and an additional 900 men surrendered. In all 50 Argentines were buried and 1200 POW taken. What I found most incredible was the fighting force of 2 Para and how a battalion of 450 men took on an enemy four times its size. The story didn’t end there for 2 Para. We were told how they remained in Goose Green to clear ordnance and war debris an action believed to have reduced combat stress?
What a fantastic afternoon, and there were left over cakes for the journey back to camp!



Sunday 13 February 2011

Sunday 6 Feb 11 – Sea Kayaking


Lady Elizabeth, Stanley
Agreeing to go kayaking with Tina seemed like a good idea at the time! Tina works with the Navy and was really buoyed up (no pun intended) to go out on the water. I’ve only ever experienced sea kayaking once before on the River Fal in Cornwall and I nearly stopped breathing with fear! So I was up for having another go. We got in touch with the adventure training centre and jacked up a date – which came around all too quickly for my liking. Not wanting to let anyone down, I was carried along by the momentum of the day and it wasn’t until I was getting changed in to my dry suit that I started panting and having my OMG moments! The kayaks were loaded on to the wagon and we were driven down to the sheltered water by the wreck of the Lady Elizabeth. The water was turquoise and the wreck obscured my view of the open water the other side … happy days! I’m glad I did it, if only to say I have paddled on the South Atlantic Ocean, but I really am a land lubber! 


Sunday 6 February 2011

Meeting the Falkland Islands Resupply Ship - Sat 5 Feb 11

I was up early to go aboard one of the tugs that was going out to meet the FIRS and bring her in to port. The idea was sound in theory, but the time that i needed to be in the port to be sure to be aboard before the Pilot was getting earlier and earlier! i've never been on a tug before let alone go out to sea to escort a container ship. The crew were very hospitable and made some delicious fresh coffee which was delicious, tasted like rocket fuel and very very welcome at silly o'clock in the morning! The heavy rain had eased a bit by the time we left port and we could make out the container ship in the distance. The tug made its way very quietly out toward the ship and, although i could feel the motion of the ocean, i was okay .... to begin with! Bump - the little tug juddered and the waves began to spray over her bough and on to the wheelhouse windows - me no likey! The crew, having spotted my colour changing, assured me that the party was just starting. i was now looking out the back of the wheelhouse window becasue the sea was flat calm in the wake, so i tried to keep my eyes on the horizon. and then i forgot all about my seasickness as we drew alongside the container ship. Within seconds the Pilot had hopped from the tug on to the ship through a door in the ship's side and we were reversing away awaiting his direction. We followed port side for a while and then, as the ship was manoeuvred in to port, played push me pull you with a second tug. You would not believe how quiet these tugs are! It was incredible to watch these little vessels pushing this humungus big container ship so gracefully. And then i went to work!.

Friday 28 January 2011

Monday 24 Jan 11 – Mare Harbour

Didn’t really know what to expect and after having our safety briefing we were kitted out with padded, waterproof suits and life jackets. We were then walked outside to go aboard – a landing craft! This was going to be fun?? I had already forgotten whether my bum looked big in the suit and was more worried about being sea sick because this was a flat bottomed boat! I had been promised sightings of dolphins and seals so I was keeping my eyes peeled. We had a bit of an amble around Sniper Island and saw a seal in the water, tracking us as we walked along the shoreline. Then they had a bit of fun with the passengers… water was crashing over the front of the ramp and I couldn’t get my hood up. Try as I might it wasn’t happening and was tangled in the lifejacket. Both the guys were helping me now when an almighty wave came over the front and absolutely drenched me, yeah …wouldn’t worry about it now mate! I looked like a sea witch. Then they let us have a go at driving the boat. I got to do a donut and an emergency stop and bring her almost back to port before handing back to the experts. What a fab way to spend a Monday morning! Thanks to Micky, Manse and Tuna.

Wednesday 26 January 2011

San Carlos Water – Sunday 23 Jan 11

Ajax Bay
San Carlos Jetty
I wanted to visit Ajax Bay and see the ruins of a refrigeration plant, a project from the early 1950s which had intended to produce mutton for transportation by sea between the Falklands and Southampton. Sadly the plant survived for a little less than two years, sheep in the Falklands had been bred for wool and their meat was not necessarily the right quality. In 1982 these buildings were used as a military hospital. It was eerie walking around the site, now very derelict. In fact the only sound was corrugated iron creaking as it was tugged by the wind. Even the RM Commando flag burled silently. On the opposite side of San Carlos Water, a half an hour’s drive by road (well I say road but it is more like a yellow grit track), is San Carlos settlement. San Carlos was one of the landing sites used by the Task Force. Seeing the landing site today with blue sky and sunshine, it is quite impossible to imagine the noise and the activity that must have taken place back on 21 May 1982.

Clay Shooting – Saturday 22 Jan 11

Went out for a bit of sport today and went on a shoot on a range just outside of Stanley. Group was mixed between those that wanted to do pistols and those that wanted to do Clays. I wanted to have a go with the big gun and was both nervous and psyched all at the same time. I asked the guy if he had a ‘ladies’ gun because the thought of the recoil was making me nervous. The gun was just too heavy for me and, although I was given lots of encouragement, I still felt really nervous. I am ashamed to say I fired once and wimped out – not before I had my picture taken in this very fetching vest!

Sunday 23 January 2011

Argentine Cemetry

Found this cemetery on the off chance on the return trip from Bodie Creek Bridge. It seemed churlish not to visit their war dead. The maintenance of the Cemetery is the responsibility of the families who lost soldiers and it was immaculate. Seeing the rows of white crosses, each one bedecked with at least one string of rosary beads was incredibly moving.

Bodie Creek Bridge - S51.51.188 degrees W059 degrees 00.972


Just beyond Goose Green is Bodie Creek Bridge. This is the most southerly suspension bridge in the world and is 120 metres long. It crosses the waters of Bodie Creek. Built in the early 1920s, the bridge was made in London costing almost £2300 and shipped to the Falklands. What was it used for? Herding sheep from Walker Creek to Goose Green. It is very dilapidated and unsafe but still incredibly picturesque

Sunday 16 January 2011

Battlefield Tour - Mt Longdon - 13 Jan 2011

I've been itching to get out on a battlefield tour. I'd been advised that Mt Longdon was a good one to do because it is a reasonable walk but it also saw some of the bloodiest fighting. You know me, I'm dead enthusiastic about these things... so i was really up for it... daysack packed, packed lunch collected, sun cream applied i headed off with the group by landrover to Stanley. Our first stop was at Moody Brook where we were orientated to the ground. With our backs to Stanley we were looking toward Mt Harriet, Two sisters, Goat Ridge, Tumbledown and to our right Longdon. We were taken a bit further by Landrover along a very bumpy track - i suspect the original road - before getting out to walk. They promised me I wouldn't be yomped - or tabbed!! - but for each stride they made I was making two. The terrain was very uneven, coarse grass, tussocks, dips where your foot disappears into the peat - i can't imagine how the paras had the strength to do this fully laden with kit and supplies. we skirted Longdon so as to climb from the back, the route 3 Para would have taken from Estancia. Once around the back the scenery changed, it was relatively flat and very open, panoramic viewpoint for whoever held the hill.  We made our ascent which, at times, was incredibly steep. It really is incredible to think that so few men made a successful assault without being picked off by the machine guns or snipers. The picture top left is one of the machine gun posts. This is one of two that I saw and lots of other paraphernalia which have respectfully been left put. I found it quite chilling to see a blanket in a makeshift bunker and the soles of plimsoles scattered about. Today the privilege was mine to have walked in their footsteps.

Sunday 9 January 2011

Saunders Island

This is the second largest offshore Island in the Falklands. I was given a lastminutedotcom invitation to go along to see the wildlife on Saunders Island. More than happy to oblige, not just because it would be a day out but I would get to see the King Penguins. The helicopter trip was a long one, I got to see a lot of helicopter! Some two hours flying, but seriously... what better way to see the scenery than from the air. The difference between East and West Falklands is quite dramatic, the West being more rugged and the landscape more hilly/mountainous. And to see the kelp beds from height was beautiful. The kelp is the colour of rust and very straggly and there are metres and metres and metres of the stuff but it is in shallow water, the colour of the water is turquoise and the kelp beds looked like something you would see through a kaleidoscope. We had a pleasant walk at tourist speed along a rocky road to The Neck. This little stretch of beach connects Elephant Point to Saunders Island and is a mecca for all four penguins. And I saw my first King Penguins. They are truly handsome birds, and there walk is very comical. I was able to get incredibly close and as they have no land predators they are remarkably tame. I saw a large creche of chicks being looked after by some adult birds so thought I would walk down towards the sea shore and take some pictures of them, but as I walked down their flank (at some distance I will add) they all began moving forward rolling like pebbles towards the sea. David Bellamy never appeared to have those problems when he was filming! Clearly not the Ninja I thought i was!!